Master the art of Cotonou's motorcycle taxis. Learn how to negotiate prices, stay safe, and ride comfortably across Fidjrossè.
Introduction: The Yellow Wave
If you are visiting **Fidjrossè** or Cotonou for the first time, you cannot miss them. They are everywhere. The "Zémidjans" (or "Zems") are the motorcycle taxis clad in yellow shirts that form the lifeblood of transport in Benin. They are fast, convenient, and essential for getting around the sandy streets of Fidjrossè where cars often struggle. However, for a newcomer, they can be intimidating. Here is your ultimate guide to mastering the Zémidjan experience in 2024.
1. The Art of Negotiation (Before You Sit!)
This is the Golden Rule of Cotonou transport: **Always agree on the price before your leg crosses the seat.** The moment you sit down, you accept the driver's terms, which can often double upon arrival if not discussed.
2. Spotting the Safe Drivers
Not all Zems are created equal. For maximum safety, look for drivers wearing the **official yellow or green uniforms** with a registration number printed on the back. These drivers are registered with the city unions.
Alternatively, use apps like **GoZem**. It’s the "Uber for motorcycles" in West Africa. You get a fixed price, a tracked ride, and usually a higher quality helmet. It removes the stress of bargaining, though it might take 5 minutes for a driver to arrive.
3. "Doucement" vs "Kpatima"
Speed is a thrill for some, but a terror for others. If your driver is weaving through traffic like he's auditioning for *Mission Impossible*, speak up!
4. The Change Conundrum
Zémidjan drivers are legendary for never having change. If you hand over a 5,000 CFA note for a 300 CFA ride, expect a long delay while he runs to three different kiosks to find change.
5. To Helmet or Not to Helmet?
Legally, both driver and passenger should wear helmets. In practice, in the sandy side-streets of Fidjrossè, passengers often go without. However, as a tourist on main roads (like the Route des Pêches), **always ask for a helmet**.
Most drivers carry a spare one on their handlebars. It might be dusty, but it’s safer than the alternative. If you are staying for a month or more, buy your own helmet (approx 10,000 CFA) for hygiene and safety.
Conclusion
Riding a Zem is more than just transport; it's a cultural immersion. Feel the sea breeze, smell the street food, and enjoy the chaotic harmony of Cotonou traffic. Just remember to negotiate hard and hold on tight!
Team Fidjrossè
Contributeur Fidjrossè Insider
